WE COME TO DEFEND

THE CUBAN REVOLUTION

I’ve been to Cuba twice, both during and after Fidel.

I saw La Habana change a lot in a few years.
Not the city itself, not its streets, not its buildings, not the black smoke from its old cars.

I saw his air, his atmosphere, his people change.
And, for me, it certainly wasn’t for the better.

I saw a large part of Cuba, the one far from the resorts, where you can feel the breathe of the Revolucion.
I came to see it. I went there to defend her.

I went to Santa Clara, where the mausoleum of Che is the symbolic place, but you have to get lost in its streets to breathe his life, his influence.

Cienfuegos is to be visited slowly.
The Paseo el Prado runs across the whole city, all the way to the bay that shares its name.
From here, you can start exploring the diving opportunities.

The cobbled streets of the colonial Trinidad are always full of new sights.
Surely the center can be identified in the Plaza Mayor.
As you walk past the church, you’ll find impromptu bands playing in the background, with foreigners and locals alike looking for the best WiFi signal in one of the few areas of the city that offers good service.

Santiago de Cuba is like a journey into travel itself.
It’s probably because there aren’t many foreigners around. But the city is definitely worth spending a few days in.
A lot of Cuban history began and still lives here.
You can see it in the steep streets, in the cheerful and proud people, and in the Cuartel Moncada, which was attacked in 1953.
And then there’s the Cementerio Santa Ifigenia, where Fidel Castro, José Martí, various revolutionary heroes, and musician Compay Segundo are buried.

HOW TO GET TO CUBA

Where to start

It can take a little while to find the cheapest flight on momondo.com.
If you’re looking for a cheaper direct flight from Europe, you’ve got a few options: Rome, Milan, Madrid or Paris.
Moscow is an option for those who are happy to extend their flight by a few hours.
Mexico City and Cancun are usually the best stops.

Where to land

The main airport is definitely José Martí International Airport in Havana.
There are also international airports in Varadero, Camagüey, Holguín and Santiago de Cuba.
You’ll need to think about the overall costs and how you’re going to organise the trip.

FIRST IMPACT WITH CUBA

The first thing you’ll notice about Cuba is the impact it has on you.

When you arrive, you might feel a bit out of your depth, with lots of people coming to meet you as if they were old friends.

They’ll tell you the “casa particular” (particular house) you’ve booked doesn’t exist and offer you the beautiful home of their sister instead.
They’ll also tell you that taxis are expensive and that you’ll save money by getting into their car.
They’ll tell you that their friend’s restaurant is the best in Cuba.

They will only tell you lies in an attempt to rip you off as much as possible and as soon as possible.

Take a deep breath and try to see the situation as it really is.

Don’t change too much money at the airport, in the official exchange points where you read Cadeca.

Just so you know, a taxi from the Havana airport to the city will cost you anything from 15 to 25 CUC, depending on how good you are at negotiating.
Don’t accept the first price they give you – it’s always too high.

It’s important to remember that Cuban people will try to take advantage of you however and wherever they can.

DOCUMENTS REQUIRED

Just a heads-up: you’ll need three documents to travel to Cuba:
– passport: at least six months’ validity remaining.
– medical insurance: those days when annual insurance cost less than 100 euros are long gone.
As well as covering you for accidents, you’re also insured for loss of luggage, theft and cancellation of your travel arrangements.
– visa tarjeta de turista: the tourist card is a rectangular piece of paper (two equal squares) with your data.
One part will be retained by the customs officer upon your arrival at the airport, and the other will have to be held it until it is returned when you leave Cuba.
You’ll also need to temporarily leave it with the owner of the house you’re staying.
It’s their job to register your stay.
The card costs about 20 euros. If the airline or travel agency asks for more, it’s because they want to make money from that too.
You can decline and do it yourself if you’d like.

WHERE TO SLEEP

The only place I like to sleep in Cuba is a casa particular.
It’s a bit like a B&B, really.

Prices start at 15 CUC. You’ll have access to the house, and if you’re interested, you can pay a little extra for breakfast, lunch, or a tour arranged by the landlord.
Just remember that you’re dealing with locals, they are trying to make a profit, never consider them disinterested friends.
Look at everything they’re offering, ask questions and don’t be afraid to negotiate on price.

If you go to their sister’s restaurant, take their cousin’s taxi or stay at their mother’s house (if you listen to the Cubans, they should have endless relatives), you’ll probably pay more in commission.
It’s a never-ending cycle of money.I’d suggest you book a casa particular for your first nights or first city.
Between mothers, sisters, cousins and friends, you’ll easily find somewhere to sleep.

MOVE TO CUBA

The main cities are often also connected by air.
Obviously the prices are quite expensive, and it’s rare that this is reflected in the service.

The Viazul bus connects all of Cuba.
They’re safe and comfortable, but you’ll need to arrange for the cold air conditioning.
The drivers aren’t always as professional as they could be. I once had to wait for over half an hour in the middle of nowhere because the driver had to stop at a friend’s house to get eggs, chickens, bread and so on.
It’s a good idea to book a few days in advance of your planned departure, just to be sure you’ll find a place and you won’t have to change your schedule or itinerary.

Official taxis never use the taximeter.
It’s worth bargaining, as the first price you’re given will likely be at least double the honest one. If you don’t like it, just ask another taxi driver.

It’s pretty much impossible to hitchhike in Cuba. Or at least, there’s no free hitchhiking.
You might not even have to do anything but stop for a moment and watch the car so the driver stops immediately.
You’ll also hear horns being blown to offer you a lift when you wouldn’t even think of it.
Just a heads-up: they’re even more likely to try to cheat you than official taxi drivers.
They might suggest some restaurants to get a commission.

The Cuban people are full of surprises.

Listen out for any interesting offers, but be prepared to walk away if it doesn’t seem like a good deal.